Written by Mike S. who works in Drs. Foster and Smith’s Technical Support Department.
Here are a few aquarium plumbing tips to help make your next plumbing job a little more hassle-free!
Avoid reducing or restricting water flow at the aquarium pump intake (inlet).
This will shorten the life of the pump and will cause it to run warmer than normal.
Try not to reduce or restrict water flow at the aquarium pump return (outlet) either.
The water flow from return line of the pump should only be reduced at the last possible moment in order to minimize reduction in flow rate due to resistance/friction and help the pump run cooler. Reducing the pump return line diameter may increase maximum head height somewhat (like putting your thumb over a garden hose to make it squirt farther), it will also increase resistance (back pressure) against the pump’s impeller, shortening the life of the pump and making the pump operate at a higher temperature.
Use a screen or pre-filter on the intake side of the pump.
The screen should be designed for this purpose. Most submersible pumps come with a detachable screen. If you are drawing water over the side of the tank or reservoir using a hard plastic J-tube, make sure it is equipped with a screen. If you are using a bulkhead fitting to direct water through a panel of the tank or reservoir, then obtain a screen designed to fit into the tank-side of the bulkhead. Most bulkhead kits come with a screen.
Be flexible when it comes to your pump return line.
A filtration return line system plumbed with hard PVC may LOOK neater and more professional than one plumbed with flexible vinyl or (preferably) flexible PVC, hard PVC elbows and pipe provide more resistance than flexible tubing. This increases head pressure and makes the pump work considerably harder and operate at a hotter temperature. If you must use hard plumbing, use sweeping elbows instead of sharp 90 degree elbows and be prepared to purchase an aquarium chiller.
Bigger is not always better.
If you installed a flow valve and have to reduce the water flow by more than 1/3, then your pump is too large for the application. Restricting water flow through an over- sized pump with a valve will result in greater back pressure, a hotter running pump, and subsequently warmer temperatures in the aquarium. A pump that is too powerful for a given application may cause cavitations (formation of gas bubbles under pressure) in the impeller area causing severe damage to the pump.
Use the maximum flow-through rating of a filter as a general guide line.
Keep in mind that the maximum flow rates listed for pumps and overflow pre-filters are normally achieved during operation in ideal conditions. Each filtration system is unique and subject to different variables. Once plumbed together, components that appear to be perfectly matched may not produce the desired effect. Plumbing configuration and other variables can affect the performance of the overflow pre-filter or the pump to upset the rate which water enters the filtration system and returns to the aquarium.
Use a separate pump to drive a protein skimmer.
Protein skimmers provide varying resistance to the pump due to “scum” build-up inside the skimmer body and valves, as well as partially-clogged venturis and collection chamber vents. If the same pump returning water to your tank from a reservoir is also driving your skimmer, you will find yourself constantly adjusting valves to adjust your skimmer collection rate.
Factor in bends and turns when calculating flow rate based on head height.
Water returning to your aquarium encounters more resistance at each turn, bend or angle in the plumbing. More bends mean greater reduction in flow rate. Keep sharp turns in plumbing to a minimum or select a pump with a slightly higher gph rating to accommodate flow rate loss. As a general guide when calculating head height using 1/2″ to 1″ I.D. tubing, every 90 degree elbow or tee on the return side of the pump increases the head height value by one to two feet.
Don’t use tools with serrated jaws to tighten threaded plastic fittings.
The serrated jaw of the tools creates indentations with sharp or rough edges. These indentations cause stress cracks that lead to leaks and plastic plumbing ruptures. Try using a strap wrench, or placing a piece of leather or thick rubber between the tool and the plastic fitting/pipe.
Related Posts:
{ 1 trackback }
{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }
You have stated that in putting a trap wrench, or placing a piece of leather or thick rubber between the tool and the plastic fitting/pipe helps to handle leaks instead of using a serrated jaws was a tremendous idea. Thanks for the tips. Keep it coming…
Make sure your sump is large enough to hold all the water that will drain into it in the event of a power outage or if you need to turn off the pumps for maintenance.
Simply desire to say your article is as amazing. The clarity in your post is just spectacular and i could assume you’re an expert on this subject. Well with your permission let me to grab your feed to keep up to date with forthcoming post. Thanks a million and please keep up the gratifying work.